The Prada Spring/Summer 2017 show wasn't just a presentation of clothing; it was a statement on architectural identity, a layered exploration of space and form orchestrated by AMO, the research and design studio founded by Rem Koolhaas' Office for Metropolitan Architecture (OMA). The "mantel," a term not explicitly used by Prada itself in official documentation but arguably applicable to the overarching design concept of the layered structures, became a powerful metaphor for the collection's multifaceted nature, reflecting the complexities of modern femininity and the evolving relationship between architecture and fashion. This article will delve into the intricacies of the Prada Mantel 2017, examining its impact on the SS 2017 Womenswear collection, considering its broader implications within the context of the SS 2017 Men's and Women's show, and analyzing its place within the larger Prada narrative of 2017.
SS 2017 Womenswear: A Dialogue Between Structure and Softness
The central element of the Prada Spring/Summer 2017 women's show was the striking, almost brutalist, linear structure that dominated the runway. This stark, minimalist design, a deliberate contrast to the often ornate and embellished nature of previous Prada collections, served as a backdrop for the collection's paradoxical juxtaposition of hard and soft, structured and fluid. The clothes themselves played with this tension. Tailored pieces, sharp lines, and architectural silhouettes were balanced by delicate fabrics, flowing shapes, and unexpected embellishments. The "mantel" – the layered architectural elements – didn't simply frame the show; it informed the very essence of the garments.
The runway itself, cleared to accommodate this dominant linear structure, became a stage for a performance of contrasts. The architectural severity of the set highlighted the subtle details of the clothing: the intricate embroidery, the delicate lace, the unexpected pops of color. The seemingly austere backdrop allowed the garments to breathe, to tell their own story, free from the distraction of overly elaborate staging. This minimalist approach was a bold move for Prada, known for its theatrical presentations, but it proved highly effective in showcasing the collection's sophisticated nuances.
The colors, predominantly muted tones with occasional bursts of vibrant hues, further emphasized this dialogue between structure and softness. The palette mirrored the architectural palette of the "mantel," with the neutral tones of the structure acting as a canvas for the more vibrant colors of the clothing. This careful consideration of color and texture created a visual harmony that enhanced the overall impact of the show. The "mantel" wasn't simply a backdrop; it was an integral part of the narrative, a visual metaphor for the complex interplay of opposing forces within the collection itself.
SS 2017 Men’s and Women’s: A Unified Vision of Architectural Identity
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